Domaines Calendal and Escaravailles
2024 Rhône Summary
The spring of 2024 varied from wet to very, very wet throughout France and even the southern Rhône didn’t escape. Many properties suffered from fungal diseases such as mildew, resulting in crop loss, although some areas were more affected than others. A hot summer with good conditions during harvest has produced some excellent wines characterised by good aromatics, ripe fruit and lovely balance with soft, appealing tannins. A small vintage, but one well worth investing in. The wines will drink early but do have the wherewithal to age well, too.
Domaine Calendal are releasing their 2024 soon; the wines from Escaravailles are from the recently released and very good 2023 vintage.
I intend to ship from these amazing properties below after the 2024 wines are bottled at the end of February or early March; the other factor involved is that I do have to obtain enough orders to make it worthwhile shipping, so I cannot give an exact shipping date at this point.
Price is GBP Per Case 12 x 75cl or 6 x 150cl under bond UK. All orders are subject to final confirmation. Prices exclude any duty, Vat, or transfer charges. Shipping dates are not available yet. E & OE
Domaine des Escaravailles & Domaine Calendal,Rasteau
‘Readers should be on the lookout for the wines from this superb estate’ – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
I have known this wonderful southern-Rhône winery for many years and tasted their wines with Gilles Ferran and the renowned French oenologist and larger than life bon viveur, Philippe Cambié, who very sadly passed away in 2021. Apart from the wines of Domaine des Escaravailles, Gilles and Phillipe also created a brilliant wine called Calendal from a separate vineyard of old vine Grenache and Mourvèdre. I have an opportunity to work with the domaine again and I intend to take advantage.
Founded in 1953, the domaine name (Occitan for ‘beetle’) comes from the historic nickname for the local monks who appeared as tiny specks from this altitude as they wound their way up to the hilltop monasteries. I remember two things very clearly from my first visit to Escaravailles: one, I was very glad I had a car and not relying, monk-like, on a donkey; two, the stunning views across to the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains were in stark contrast to the estate itself which, from the outside, looks a tad Heath Robinson. Once inside, however, the winery is a lesson in function; a spotless workplace where the third generation owner and hugely talented winemaker, Gilles Ferran, can produce his magic. Laurence and Gilles’ daughter, Madeline, has been heavily involved since 2018.
Escaravailles has vineyards in the Côtes-du-Rhône villages of Rasteau, Cairanne and Roaix where the vineyards are covered in stones, some really quite large, and the underlying soil is clay (good for water retention). The yields from the, mainly, old vines are kept low to ensure that only the highest-quality grapes are produced. The elevation of their vineyards is essential to retaining the grapes’ natural freshness and elegance – the wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Domaine des Escaravailles, Rasteau
Blanc
2024 Rasteau Blanc ‘La Ponce’ – £192
A blend of 30% Roussanne, 30% Marsanne, 20% Clairette, 20% Grenache blanc. Partly aged in amphorae. It has always been difficult to sell white wines from the southern-Rhône and I’ve really no idea why, but there has been a reluctance amongst the UK public to try these wines since I have been in the trade. They are delightful, they pair well with food and are inexpensive compared to white Burgundy of the same quality.
Winemaker’s note: The flagship white of the estate. The nose reveals juicy white peach and lemon zest. The palate is refreshing, vertical, and crisp, with saline notes. A mineral, airy, and finely crafted white wine. This will drink well for two to three years
2025 Côtes du Rhône Blanc la Galopine – £265
A blend of small plots of marl soils, bordered by woodland and located at an altitude of 400m, in the lieu-dit Combe de l’Eoune. A blend of 50% Roussanne, 45% Marsanne, 5% Viognier, partly oak fermented this is more structured than La Ponce. As usual, the grapes are harvested before sunrise, ensuring that the grapes retain their natural acidity and balance.
Winemaker’s note: The nose is elegant, with floral notes, thyme, and fresh almond. On the palate, there is a harmonious balance between acidity and roundness. A delicate and chiselled white wine, perfect for gastronomy, with great aromatic finesse.
Rouge
2023 Rasteau Rouge ‘La Ponce’ – £168
This wine comes from a clay-limestone vineyard called “La Ponce”, behind the winery, on the heights of the appellation of Rasteau, between 310 and 340m of altitude. One could easily argue that this is one of the best-value Rhônes available: the wine has exceptional quality, it is expressive and vibrant when young yet will age and gain complexity for ten to fifteen years.
The 2023 Rasteau la Ponce opens with a slightly reduced bouquet of dark cherries, crushed violets, wild berries, and warm spices. Medium- to full-bodied, seamless, and enveloping, it is built around a fleshy, sapid core of fruit and framed by powdery, well-integrated tannins. The finish is long, fresh, and delicately spicy, delivering the balance and energy that mark this vintage. This is a finely judged, elegant expression of Rasteau that should evolve gracefully over the next 5–8 years. This is a blend of 80% Grenache Noir and 20% Syrah. The Wine Advocate RP 92 Reviewed by: Yohan Castaing Drink Date: 2025 – 2040 Published: Oct 16, 2025
2023 Roaix ‘Les Hautes Granges’ – £282
A lovely vintage for this wine. Old-vine Syrah, from a vineyard called “Les Hautes Granges” in Roaix with clay-limestone soils. The grapes are hand picked and sorted at the vineyard then fully destemmed and fermented in concrete tanks followed by ageing in oak barrels (225L) for nine months. I am a huge fan of Syrah, especially Syrah this good, always a favourite of mine. Winemakers note: Superb deep red wine colour with inky reflections. Elegant and graphite nose of violet, cherry brandy, and eucalyptus. The palate is full and round, with cocoa aromas combined with liquorice and white pepper.
For food pairing the winery team suggested jugged hare with chocolate sauce – Pheasant cooked with mushrooms – Regalis blue sheep cheese – Dark chocolate mousse. Jugged hare was a favourite of my father’s but I am sure he never tried it with chocolate sauce.
2023 Rasteau ‘Heritage 1924’ – £282
This wine comes from a single vineyard of Grenache called “Les Fouquesses”, planted in 1924, with blue clay soil. It is another high-altitude vineyard so the cool night temperatures slow down the ripening process and give the grapes their natural freshness and balance. Heritage has always been a wonderfully pure expression of old vine Grenache. The grapes are hand picked and sorted at the vineyard. They are fully destemmed then fermented in concrete tank. Vatting time is between 25 to 28 days with gentle extraction. Then ageing in concrete tank for nine months to keep the purity of Grenache. It needs a little time in the cellar but worth the wait many times over. For me, this has always screamed lamb, but there are many options that will pair well with this marvellous wine.
Crafted entirely from Grenache Noir planted in 1924 on blue clay soils, the 2023 Rasteau Heritage 1924 is, as ever, the densest and most powerful wine in the range. Offering up aromas of dark cherry, rose petal and warm spices, it is medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit and a structured mid-palate, framed by velvety, nicely integrated tannins, concluding with a long, fresh finish. Élevage took place exclusively in concrete tanks. The Wine Advocate RP 93 Reviewed by: Yohan Castaing Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2028 – 2040
Domaine de Calendal, Rasteau
2024 Plan de dieu Rouge – £276
This is Gilles’ and Philippe’s pet project which became an almost overnight success once launched. Made from old vine Grenache (70%) and Mourvedre planted in 1964 and 1968 in a vineyard called Velage, which is composed of clay-limestone soil with round polished stones on the surface. Extremely low yields. The grapes are hand picked and sorted at the vineyard. They are fully destemmed then fermented in concrete tanks. Vatting time is between 28 to 35 days with daily grape-treading and pumping-over. Ageing is then in oak barrels (225L) for nine months.
It sees a little new oak but the oak never dominates. I have often written “delicious” as a descriptive when tasting the young wine from barrel or tank there and, although that’s a bit lazy, it just always is. The fruit is sublime in its purity and ripeness, the tannins soft and the balance excellent. It is just an exquisite wine. Winemaker’s note: Deep red colour. The nose is complex and elegant with blueberry jam, thyme, and “Zan” aromas. The palate is silky, with blond tobacco and licorice notes. A full-bodied and fleshy wine. Elegant, with a beautiful tannic structure. This bottle is true velvet. I have enjoyed this with lamb, pork, roasted Mediterranean vegetables and cheese. I have also enjoyed it on its own, may Madeline forgive me. This will drink now and over the next eight to ten years.