Frozza – Essence of prosecco. New Still Wine
Azienda Agricola Frozza, Colbertaldo di Vidor
Life used to be much simpler – Prosecco was a grape, of full flavour, widely grown, but which in the area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene gave its name to a rather delicate and refined wine, either still or sparkling. Pick up a bottle of Prosecco and you knew pretty much what you were getting. Nowadays, the grape has been renamed ‘Grela’, which nobody has ever heard of, and the name Prosecco merely designates an area, approximately equivalent to North-East Italy. Almost anything can go into a wine of this name and the only thing you can be certain of is that it will contain bubbles.
In the meantime, still Prosecco, or Tranquillo, has almost disappeared, along with the knowledge of how to make it, which is why we were very excited to discover that our friend Giovanni Frozza still makes a limited quantity, despite the lack of commercial interest. His reason? Because that’s what he likes to drink himself. So it’s not surprising that he only uses the best grapes to make this wine in order to produce the purest expression of the Prosecco, sorry Grela, grape.
Of course, you can also get the version with bubbles, and nobody makes it quite like Giovanni. From his 8 ha in Colbertaldo di Vidor – in the very heart of the Valdobbiadene DOCG – he produces delightful, minerally Prosecchi that are world-class sparkling wines of real character. Giovanni and his family do everything themselves, from working the old vines (up to 50 years of age) on the extremely steep mountain vineyards through to the labelling: No consultant winemaker, no cultured yeasts (only indigenous strains collected over many years), no purchased grapes.
Wines are due to arrive mid-July. Price is per case of 6 x 75cl as indicated, wines offered subject to remaining available.
Delivery is charged under £200. Free delivery on 12 bottles which may be mixed. 10% Discount on 24 bottles or more.
2017 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Tranquillo ‘Dei Opereta’ – £105.00 (Still wine)
Named after the family cognomen, this is the essence of Prosecco. Powerful yet delicate, light and refreshing, a real summer wine. Perfect with fruits de mer, but also with pasta alle vongole or grilled fish, or just as a very agreeable apéritif. And at just 10.5% alcohol it’s a very useful addition to the cellar.
Very pale yellow, but bright, crystalline. Rich floral aromas underpinned by delicate fruit scents – peach, pear and a touch of almond. In the mouth, the fruit comes to the fore, with a perfect balance between acidity and alcohol. Light and refreshing without being the least bit ‘thin’. Very long finish, strong flavours of pear and almond and yet still astonishingly delicate. The wine seems ageless. I want some more.
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Spumante Extra Dry “Col dell’Orso” – £113.70
A Prosecco that so successfully translates its terroir into the glass is a rare thing, to do so at such a reasonable price is even rarer. On the nose the floral notes are there – mountain meadows, to be precise – apples, pears and slight spice too. I was really struck by the clean, minerally layers and acidity that support this stylish wine. Aperitif par excellence.